What is it?
The dermis is the middle layer of the skin, sitting just beneath the epidermis and above the hypodermis. It plays a vital role in skin structure, resilience, and overall function. It comprises of collagen and elastin fibres, blood vessels, lymphatics, nerves, and important skin cells such as fibroblasts, mast cells, and immune cells.
This layer is where much of what we think of as “skin health” happens. Collagen provides firmness, elastin allows for flexibility and bounce, and the blood vessels supply nutrients and oxygen while helping to regulate temperature. Hair follicles, sweat glands, and sebaceous glands are also rooted in the dermis, all contributing to the skin’s appearance and function.
Unlike the epidermis, which renews itself regularly, the dermis changes more slowly over time. With age or environmental damage, collagen and elastin production decline, and the dermal structure becomes thinner and less organised. This leads to fine lines, sagging, and reduced skin density.
How is it treated?
Skincare cannot penetrate to this layer without assistance, but some ingredients and treatments are designed to stimulate activity within it. Retinoids, Peptides, and Vitamin C are commonly used to support fibroblast function and encourage collagen production. More intensive procedures such as microneedling, laser resurfacing, or radiofrequency are able to reach the layer directly, triggering a healing response that promotes firmer, smoother skin over time.
The dermis is also where inflammation, wound healing, and immune responses are regulated. Chronic inflammation in this layer can accelerate ageing and contribute to conditions like acne, rosacea, or eczema. Supporting the skin’s barrier function and reducing oxidative stress can help protect the dermis and maintain a healthier skin environment.
