Hyperpigmentation and Skincare Treatments

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition where darker areas of skin appear, caused by an excess of melanin (the pigment responsible for the colour of your skin, hair and eyes).

If you’ve noticed patches on your skin (ranging in colour from light to dark brown or even grey), you’re not alone, approximately one third of adults are affected by hyperpigmentation.

It can appear on people of all skin types, but it is more common in individuals with darker skin tones, as they naturally produce more melanin.

There are a number of types, including melasma (hyperpigmented patches most typically on the face in a symmetrical pattern), sun spots (freckles and solar lentigines), periorbital hyperpigmentation (appearing around the eyes) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

While it isn’t harmful, it can cause people to feel less confident or concerned about their appearance. In today’s journal, I share my expert take on everything pigmentation, from the causes, to the best aesthetic treatments for hyperpigmentation, to effective active ingredients and my product prescription for treating pigmented skin.

What Causes Hyperpigmentation?

Overproduction of melanin is the biological cause for hyperpigmentation, however there are several triggers that can lead to an increase in melanin:

The Sun: Exposure to UV stimulates the production of melanin, which can cause dark spots to appear over time. The higher the exposure to sun, the greater the chance of developing it. This is just one of the reasons why dermatologists consistently recommend daily application of a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Hormones: Hormonal changes can also heighten hyperpigmentation – fluctuations in oestrogen or progesterone (for instance during pregnancy, birth or menopause) are commonly credited with triggering melasma.
Injuries or Inflammation: Known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, dark patches can be left behind as a result of a skin injury (whether from a skin condition like acne, or a cut).
Age: Exposure to UV increases our skin’s melanin production. On skin that has been exposed to the sun over many years, this starts to cause “age spots,” areas of skin where melanin is highly concentrated.

The Best Aesthetic Treatments For Hyperpigmentation

There are a number of in-clinic skin treatments that can be performed to reduce it. My most recommended aesthetic treatments for face and body are:

Chemical Peels: Application of a chemical exfoliant (such as Dermamelan), causing the skin to peel and reveal fresher, more radiant skin.
Laser Therapy: Multiple sessions of a laser treatment (such as IPL, Broad Band Light or Moxi) to target pigment in the skin and break it down.
Microneedling: Using fine needles to create tiny injuries in the skin and stimulate its natural healing process, resulting in improved texture and reduced hyperpigmentation. Microneedling is particularly effective for pigmentation when combined with topical treatments like vitamin C or tranexamic acid.

The Best Under-Eye Aesthetic Treatments

Over the years, I am regularly asked, “Are dark circles considered hyperpigmentation?” The answer is they can be: this is a type called periorbital hyperpigmentation, which is characterised by consistent, darker than usual circles around the eyes. It is largely hereditary and has some of the same triggers as hyperpigmentation (sun, age and hormones), but also can be caused by allergies or excess rubbing of the eyes.

There are a number of aesthetic treatments I offer in my clinic that can help lighten dark circles (as well as offer other benefits), as below:

Platelet Rich Plasma: A natural skin rejuvenation therapy to stimulate growth factors, minimising fine lines and dark under-eye circles.
Brite Eyes: A combination skincare treatment I devised combining Morpheus8 (microneedling and directional radiofrequency) with the brightening boost of Light Eyes Ultra to help improve dark circles, crepiness and fine lines.
Ameela Eyes: A polynucleotide skin booster to address concerns such as puffiness, dark circles and wrinkles.

Active Ingredients To Look For When Tackling Hyperpigmentation

There are also many effective topical skincare treatments available to prevent and reduce its appearance. Below, I have laid the top ingredients to look for along with my product recommendations:

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that brightens the skin and fades dark spots. I love CeraVe Skin Renewing 10% Vitamin C Serum.
Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that help to speed up cell turnover, encouraging the shedding of pigmented skin cells. My current favourite is SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 Cream.
Azelaic Acid helps reduce dark spots caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is a good place to start.
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that helps to reduce inflammation and improve skin tone. Since pigmentation can also appear on the body, we formulated many of our Joonbyrd products with niacinamide. LITTLE LOVE Nourishing Body Lotion and CONFETTI SKY Multitasking Hand Treatment are ideal for depigmentation.
Broad-Spectrum Sunscreens with SPF 30 or higher are essential – as prevention will always be better than the cure when it comes to pigmentation. Mineral sunscreens work best for melasma sufferers, I especially like Elta MD UV Clear SPF 46 and Kiehl’s Ultra Light Daily Mineral Defense SPF 50.