Choosing the Right Moisturiser, a Derm’s Guide

Choosing the right moisturiser for your skin can be quite a difficult decision!

Moisturisers are essential in every skincare routine, regardless of age, skin type, or environment. As a dermatologist specialising in medical and aesthetic skin health, and having created a body care range Joonbyrd, I know how important the right moisturiser can be in maintaining skin balance, health, and beauty. Moisturisers not only keep skin hydrated but also play a vital role in protecting the skin barrier, reducing inflammation, and preventing signs of premature ageing.

Here’s everything you need to know about moisturisers, from understanding what’s out there to choosing the best one for your unique skin type.

What Is a Moisturiser, and Why Do We Need It?

Moisturisers are designed to hydrate and lock in moisture in the skin, keeping it soft, smooth, and resilient. Our skin naturally contains oils that act as a protective barrier, trapping moisture and keeping irritants out. However, factors such as hot or cold weather, pollution, ageing, and certain skincare routines can weaken this barrier, leading to dryness, sensitivity, or even inflammation. That’s where moisturisers come in; they help replenish lost moisture and restore that essential protective layer.

Types of Moisturisers

Moisturisers differ in texture, ingredients, and hydration levels. When choosing the right moisturiser you should consider your needs and preferences.

Lotions are lightweight, water-based, and suitable for oily skin or warm climates.

Creams are thicker, typically blending water and oil, and are ideal for normal to dry skin.

Butters are dense, and oil-rich (e.g., shea, cocoa), best for dry or sensitive skin, promoting deeper hydration.

Humectants

Humectants, such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, work by attracting water to the skin, pulling in moisture from the air or deeper skin layers. These ingredients are lightweight and often found in gel-based or serum moisturisers, making them ideal for oily or combination skin types.

Emollients

Emollients, like squalane, ceramides, and fatty acids, smooth and soften the skin by filling in tiny gaps in the skin’s surface. They provide a silky feel and work well for normal to dry skin types.

Occlusives

Occlusives, for example, petrolatum, beeswax, and mineral oil, create a protective seal over the skin, locking in moisture and preventing water loss. They are heavier and are particularly helpful for extremely dry or compromised skin.

Combination Formulas

Many moisturisers combine humectants, emollients, and occlusives for a multi-benefit approach, catering to various skin needs in one formula. These are great for people with normal or combination skin types or those looking for comprehensive moisturisation.

Choosing the Right Moisturiser for Your Skin Type

Identifying your skin type is the first step in choosing the right moisturiser. Here’s a guide to help you find the best match:

Normal Skin: the goldilocks of skin, neither too oily nor too dry

For normal skin, a lightweight, non-greasy moisturiser is typically sufficient. Look for a formula with a balance of humectants and emollients that will hydrate and keep your skin feeling smooth without feeling heavy. I chose Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Daily Moisture Lotion and I adore Augustinus Bader The Cream. For some body care love try Joonbyrd Little Love Nourishing Body Lotion.

Dry Skin: caused by less sebum than other skin types and often feels tight, with a rough texture and more visible fine lines.

Dry skin benefits from richer formulations with emollients and occlusives that help trap moisture and strengthen the skin barrier. Ingredients like ceramides, shea butter, and glycerin can be highly beneficial for dry or sensitive skin types, providing deep hydration and a soft texture. I recommend Medik8 Ultimate Recovery.

Oily Skin: caused by the overproduction of sebum from sebaceous glands, characterised by large pores, blackheads and fewer lines.

If you have oily skin, look for oil-free, water-based moisturisers. Gel moisturisers with humectants like hyaluronic acid are particularly beneficial because they hydrate without adding excess oil, leaving a matte finish. Avoid products with heavy occlusives, as they can lead to clogged pores. Try Tatcha the Water Cream or Avena Hydrance Aqua Gel.

Combination Skin: some areas are dry, and others are more oily

For combination skin, finding a balance is key. Consider using a lightweight gel or lotion moisturiser that provides hydration without overloading the skin. A combination of humectants and light emollients works well, or you can use different products on various areas of your face for example a richer cream on dry cheeks and a gel moisturiser on oily T-zone areas. I recommend CeraVe AM Daily Moisturising Lotion with SPF 30.

Sensitive Skin: more vulnerable to external irritants and easily triggered by certain ingredients

If you have sensitive skin, opt for fragrance-free, hypoallergenic moisturisers with soothing ingredients such as aloe vera, colloidal oatmeal, or ceramides. These ingredients help calm irritation and reinforce the skin barrier, which is crucial for sensitive or reactive skin types. I love La Roche-Posay Toleriane Sensitive Cream Moisturiser.

Key Ingredients to Look for in a Moisturiser

Choosing the right ingredients can make all the difference in your moisturiser’s effectiveness.

Hyaluronic Acid: This superstar humectant hydrates the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, leaving it plump and refreshed. Searching for hyaluronic acid and hydration for your body? Check out my body care range Joonbyrd and try our hydration hero SUNDAY SOFA Body Butter.

Ceramides: Naturally occurring in the skin, ceramides help to strengthen the skin barrier and lock in moisture, ideal for all skin types, especially dry and sensitive skin.

Niacinamide: Also known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide helps to regulate oil production, improve the skin barrier, and reduce redness, making it versatile for various skin types.

Glycerin: Another humectant, glycerin draws moisture into the skin, providing hydration and a soft finish.

Squalane: This emollient mimics natural oils, making it excellent for hydration without clogging pores, and perfect for normal and dry skin types.

How and When to Apply Moisturiser

For the best results, apply moisturiser after cleansing, while your skin is still slightly damp. This allows the product to lock in any residual water on your skin, boosting hydration levels. If you use a serum or treatment, layer your moisturiser on top of these products. In the morning, follow up with SPF to protect your skin from UV damage.

For an evening routine, consider using a slightly richer formula, as skin loses moisture overnight. Night-time is also ideal for ingredients like peptides or retinol, which help repair and rejuvenate skin while you sleep.

Final Tips for Moisturiser Success

Adjust Seasonally: Consider choosing a moisturiser with a lighter formula in the warmer months and a richer, more occlusive formula in the winter to counteract seasonal dryness.

Patch Test New Products: Especially if you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, always patch test to ensure compatibility.

Stay Consistent: Consistency is key in skincare. Make moisturiser a staple in your daily routine for the best results.

Moisturisers are foundational to any skincare regime, offering hydration, barrier protection, and pro-ageing benefits. By choosing the right moisturiser that suits your skin type and following a few essential steps, you can maintain a radiant, resilient complexion. Here’s to finding your perfect moisturiser.