Can You Still Use Benzoyl Peroxide?

Acne-fighting ingredient benzoyl peroxide has been hitting the headlines in the last few months, due to research coming out of the USA that questions its safety when used on the skin, prompting a small number of product recalls.

In today’s journal entry, I give a dermatologist’s view on it and benzene, and share my expert advice for anyone currently using products containing it to treat their acne.

What Does Benzoyl Peroxide Do?

Benzoyl peroxide is an organic acid and one of the most popular ingredients used for the management of acne. It works by reducing acne-producing bacteria (known as P. acnes) while encouraging the turnover of skin cells to reduce clogged pores.

It is found in many over-the-counter lotions and spot treatments, but is predominantly used in cleansers.

Why Is The Beauty World Talking About Benzoyl Peroxide?

Earlier this year, an independent lab called Valisure filed a citizen’s petition to the FDA (the Food & Drug Administration in the USA) calling for sales of products containing benzoyl peroxide to be suspended. The call came following the lab’s tests, which found that – when stored at high temperatures – acne treatments containing the ingredient can generate high levels of the carcinogen, benzene (read on for a deeper dive into benzene itself).

Following this, the FDA tested 95 products containing it, and found six products that contained higher than expected levels of benzene. The brands that produced the six products in question alerted retailers to remove them from their shelves, but a full recall from customers was not instigated.

What Is Benzene?

Benzene is a chemical used within major manufacturing of items like plastics, foams, dyes, detergents, solvents, and insecticides.

Short term exposure to benzene may cause irritation in the throat, eyes, lungs and digestive system, whilst long term exposure can result in a range of diseases, including leukaemia and potentially other cancers. Exposure is most likely to happen through inhalation (via air pollution or smoking).

Before its toxic nature was common knowledge, benzene was used in cosmetic products, but its use in consumer goods is no longer permitted.

Is Benzoyl Peroxide Safe?

At present, yes: benzoyl peroxide is generally still considered a safe ingredient to use for the treatment of acne. The FDA’s initial memo states, “Even with daily use of these products for decades, the risk of a person developing cancer because of exposure to benzene found in these products is very low.”

Additionally, there are a couple of elements with this specific scenario that are important to consider.

Firstly, it is unusual to store acne products at a high temperature (which is generally when the increased levels of benzene were apparent).

Secondly, the company that first called for the FDA to test products, Valisure, has a live patent pending on a scientific method to prevent the breakdown of the acid into benzene. While the evidence Valisure submitted does appear sound, it is worth bearing in mind that the company could benefit financially from a recall of current products.

Furthermore, the FDA’s testing indicated “fewer products with benzene contamination than the third-party findings” and that “more than 90% of tested products had undetectable or extremely low levels of benzene.”

Finally, it is not yet abundantly clear if benzene can in fact penetrate the skin.

With all this said, I believe more research is needed to truly determine the link between benzoyl peroxide and benzene and to fully establish its safety.

Should I Stop Using Benzoyl Peroxide?

At present, I am not recommending that my patients cease use of their products containing it. Instead, I suggest the following steps to stay as safe as possible:

Consider Your Storage: Be sure to store any products containing it at room temperature or below. This means keeping them out of direct sunlight, away from heat sources and even in the refrigerator if we are experiencing hotter temperatures than usual.
Keep An Eye On Expiry Dates: Be sure to discard any products that are beyond their use by date, as it has been suggested that the degradation of the acid is what creates benzene.

Alternatives To Benzoyl Peroxide

If you would rather reduce or remove the ingredient from your routine entirely, these are my recommendations of alternative acne-fighting ingredients to consider:

Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (or BHA) which is able to penetrate into pores and clear skin cells both on the surface of the skin and beneath. Beyond its exfoliating capabilities, the fact salicylic acid can travel beneath the surface of the skin makes it adept at minimizing breakouts. It also offers hydrating properties and addresses dull and uneven skin tone. It is generally well tolerated, due to its anti-inflammatory properties.

Azelaic Acid is a dicarboxylic acid that effectively unclogs pores and reduces bacteria, while revitalizing the surface of the skin to even skin tone, fade discoloration and smooth.

Glycolic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), a type of chemical exfoliant that dissolves the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, helping to unclog pores and prevent breakouts (as well as improving signs of ageing, hydration and texture).