what it is
Urea is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum. It is part of the skin’s natural moisturising factors (NMFs), which help maintain hydration, softness and barrier integrity. In dermatology and skincare, urea is also produced synthetically for use in creams, ointments and hand or foot care treatments. Its unique properties make it both a humectant, drawing in water, and a keratolytic, gently breaking down hardened or thickened skin.
how it works in skincare and skin health
At lower concentrations (around 2–10%), urea works primarily as a moisturiser. It attracts and retains water within the skin, making it especially valuable for dry, rough or sensitive areas. Because of its ability to strengthen barrier function, it is often included in daily creams for hands and body where skin is prone to dehydration and external stress.
At higher concentrations (20% and above), urea takes on a keratolytic role. It softens and dissolves the protein bonds that hold thickened, scaly or callused skin together. This makes it a key ingredient in treatments for conditions like keratosis pilaris, eczema, psoriasis, corns and cracked heels. By loosening hardened skin, it allows other active ingredients or treatments to penetrate more effectively.
In clinical dermatology, urea-based formulations are often recommended as part of a tailored treatment plan for chronic dryness or hyperkeratotic skin conditions. Its dual action of hydration and gentle exfoliation sets it apart from many other moisturising agents.
