What it is
HEMA stands for hydroxyethyl methacrylate, a type of monomer used in many gel nail products and some traditional nail polishes. HEMA helps create the hard, glossy finish we associate with long-lasting manicures.
HEMA is one of the key ingredients that gives gel nails their durability and adhesion. Its job is to bind other components together and form a strong, flexible film once cured under a UV or LED lamp.
How HEMA works in nail and hand care
While HEMA helps achieve that polished, chip-resistant finish, it’s not always skin-friendly. The main concern with HEMA is that it can cause allergic reactions in some people, particularly if it comes into contact with the skin before being fully cured. These reactions can present as redness, itching, blistering and nail plate changes.
Repeated exposure can lead to sensitisation, meaning even small amounts may trigger a response over time. This is why professional application, precise technique and proper curing are essential. When used correctly and cured thoroughly, HEMA is less likely to cause issues. Problems often arise when the product touches the surrounding skin or if the formula contains a high concentration of monomers.
Some nail products are now formulated without HEMA, especially those marketed as hypoallergenic or suitable for sensitive skin. If you’ve experienced irritation after a gel manicure or have a known allergy to acrylates, it’s worth looking for a quality HEMA-free polish or low-HEMA options and flagging this with your nail technician.
In hand care, reactions to HEMA can lead to contact dermatitis, so any unexplained dryness or soreness around the nails may be worth discussing with a dermatologist. A barrier-repairing hand cream can help soothe symptoms, but long-term management may involve switching nail systems or taking a break altogether.
Nail polish should never compromise hand health. If your hands feel irritated or your nails start to weaken, consider it a signal to pause and rebalance your routine.
